3B hair

3B hair is the springy ringlet: a real loop about the width of a marker, plenty of volume, and ends that run dry before the roots do. It is also the type most often caught between two routines, because it needs moisture and hold at the same time.

The curly hair guide covers 3A, 3B and 3C together. This page goes further on 3B: how to confirm it, what goes wrong, and a wash day with timing.

What 3B hair looks like

Pull out a single wet strand and let it hang. A 3B strand drops into a spiral you could fit a marker through, and the spiral holds its shape without being stretched. The hair as a whole looks full, because the curls stand away from the head instead of lying along it. Dry hair shrinks well up from its wet length.

If your curls are looser and shinier, with an S-shape that stretches out easily, that is closer to 3A. If they are tight corkscrews, dense and with a lot of shrinkage, read the 3C section of the curly guide. The four checks settle it in one wash.

3A vs 3B vs 3C

Why 3B curls frizz and dry out

Scalp oil has trouble traveling down a spiral, so the lengths of curly hair stay drier than the roots. On 3B that shows up as rough ends and a frizzy halo. Three habits make it worse.

• Brushing dry. It splits the clumps the ringlets form in. The American Academy of Dermatology says never to brush curls dry.
• Heat. The AAD notes that heat and sun dry out curly hair, so a dryer belongs on low or medium.
• Thin conditioner, or too little of it. The AAD recommends a thick conditioner after every wash, applied along the whole length and not just the ends.

A 3B wash day, with timing

In the shower

Shampoo the scalp, and only the scalp, when it needs it. Put a thick conditioner through the full length, then detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while it is still in, ends first. Some people squish water into the conditioner before rinsing, which helps the curls clump. Rinse most of it out and leave the hair dripping.

Within two minutes of stepping out

A richer leave-in goes on first, section by section, then a gel with firm hold over it. Scrunch upward toward the scalp and do not rake.

• Cantu Argan Oil Leave-In Conditioning Repair CreamThick cream leave-in. No drying alcohols and no silicones.
• Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In ConditionerFormulated with curly hair in mind: pomegranate, honey and babassu oil.
• The Doux Mousse Def Texture FoamFlexible hold without crunch or flakes, for curls, coils and textured styles.
• Bounce Curl Light Hold Creme GelLight hold for waves and loose curls that a hard gel weighs down.
• SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing SmoothieCurl cream with coconut oil and silk protein, sold to soften dry curls and cut frizz.

Drying

Blot with a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel. A regular towel roughs up the cuticle. Air-dry, or diffuse on low heat and low speed with the hair held in cupped palms, and do not touch it while it dries.

Releasing the cast

The gel dries into a stiff shell. Once the hair is fully dry, scrunch it out gently, and the ringlets soften and shine.

Between wash days

Rinse or co-wash (wash with conditioner only) to refresh the curls without stripping them. Dampen dry sections with a water mist and scrunch in a small amount of leave-in. A deep conditioner once a week helps if the ends feel rough.

• tgin Miracle RepaiRx Deep Hydrating Hair MaskMoisture mask with biotin, for dry, damaged or colored hair of any texture.
• SheaMoisture JBCO Strengthen & Restore MasqueShea butter, peppermint and apple cider vinegar. Sold for dry hair that breaks.

At night, gather the hair loosely on top of the head or into a loose braid, as the AAD suggests, and use a satin pillowcase or bonnet to cut friction.

• YANIBEST Adjustable Double-Layer Satin BonnetDouble layer with an adjustable band, so it stays on through the night.

3B hair products: what to look for

• A thick conditioner and a leave-in you can feel in your hands.
• A gel with firm hold, applied to soaking wet hair.
• Lighter formulas if your strands are fine and collapse, richer ones if they are coarse. Porosity matters as much as curl type, which is why the quiz asks about it.

Frequently asked questions

What does 3B hair look like?

Springy ringlets about the width of a marker, with a lot of volume. The curls form real loops, usually from the roots or close to them, and the ends tend to feel dry.

What is the difference between 3A, 3B and 3C hair?

Curl width. A 3A curl wraps around something like a stick of sidewalk chalk, a 3B around a marker, and a 3C around a pencil or a straw. Tighter curls are usually drier and shrink more.

Is 3B hair thick or fine?

It can be either. Curl type describes the shape of the pattern, not the width of each strand or how many strands you have. A fine-strand 3B head collapses under heavy creams, while a coarse one often needs them.

How often should I wash 3B hair?

The American Academy of Dermatology says thick, curly hair does not need washing daily or even weekly, and that dry, textured or curly hair should be shampooed when needed, at least once every 2 to 3 weeks. Most people with 3B hair settle between twice a week and once every ten days, and rinse or co-wash in between.

Should I brush 3B hair?

Not dry. Brushing dry curls pulls the clumps apart and creates frizz. Detangle in the shower with conditioner still in, using fingers or a wide-tooth comb, starting at the ends and working up.

Why does my 3B hair tangle at the nape?

The nape is where hair rubs against collars, scarves and pillows all day, and curly hair knots easily where it is shortest and most handled. Detangling with conditioner in and sleeping with the hair gathered loosely on top of the head reduces it.

Not sure it is 3B? The hair type chart shows every pattern side by side, and the porosity test tells you which of these products your hair can absorb.

Sources: American Academy of Dermatology, 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists and Tips for healthy hair. Pattern descriptions: hair type chart.