On this page
Type 4 hair coils tightly from the root. It looks thick and strong, but it is the most fragile pattern: every bend in the strand is a spot where it can break, and it loses moisture faster than any other type.
Short version: 4A forms small defined coils, 4B bends in sharp Z angles, 4C is the tightest pattern with the most shrinkage. All three need moisture sealed in, detangling only on wet hair with conditioner, and protective styles that don't pull at the root.
Shrinkage is part of it. Coily hair can look a fraction of its real length when dry, which is why length retention, not growth, is what most 4-type routines are built around.
4A hair
Small, defined coils with a visible S-pattern when stretched, about the width of a crochet needle. Holds moisture a bit better than 4B and 4C, and wash-and-go styles define well.
What helps: a cream leave-in and a gel for definition, applied on wet hair in small sections.
Product links go to Amazon and may earn us a commission. How that works.
- Not Your Mother's Curl Talk Gel and Cream setA gel and a defining cream together. Flexible-firm hold, no flakes.Check price
- Taliah Waajid Curly Curl CreamDefining cream for curls, waves and coils, sold as leaving no sticky buildup.Check price
4B hair
Coils that bend in sharp, Z-shaped angles rather than spirals, so the pattern is less defined. High shrinkage, fluffy texture, and tangles that form quickly at the ends.
What helps: stretched styles such as twist-outs and braid-outs, a thicker cream, and sealing with an oil or butter.
- Cantu Argan Oil Leave-In Conditioning Repair CreamThick cream leave-in. No drying alcohols and no silicones.Check price
- Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In ConditionerFormulated with curly hair in mind: pomegranate, honey and babassu oil.Check price
- Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor OilHeavy oil for sealing ends or a hot oil treatment.Check price
4C hair
A full wash day and protective style rules for this pattern: 4C hair.
The tightest coils, often with little visible pattern unless the hair is stretched or styled. The most shrinkage and the most prone to dryness and breakage. Density varies a lot; 4C hair is not always thick.
What helps: everything below, done consistently. Moisture, careful detangling, low manipulation and protective styles worn correctly.
Washing and moisture
The American Academy of Dermatology says thick, curly or textured hair should be shampooed when needed, at least once every 2 to 3 weeks; daily or weekly washing isn't necessary. Many people with type 4 hair wash once a week or every other week, and a pre-wash oil or conditioner treatment ("pre-poo") keeps shampoo from drying out the lengths. Condition the full length after every wash.
A weekly deep conditioner helps hair this dry. Warmth under a cap helps it work, and a heated cap does that without sitting under a dryer.
- tgin Miracle RepaiRx Deep Hydrating Hair MaskMoisture mask with biotin, for dry, damaged or colored hair of any texture.Check price
- SheaMoisture JBCO Strengthen & Restore MasqueShea butter, peppermint and apple cider vinegar. Sold for dry hair that breaks.Check price
- Ingeware Thermal Heat CapElectric cap with 10 heat levels and a timer, worn over a deep conditioner.Check price
Between washes, moisture comes from water-based leave-ins, sealed with an oil or butter: the LOC (liquid, oil, cream) or LCO (liquid, cream, oil) method. Which order works depends on your porosity; try each for two weeks.
Detangling without breakage
Detangle only on wet hair with conditioner in, in sections, from the ends up, with fingers or a wide-tooth comb or a brush made for coily hair. The AAD's advice is the same as for curls: never brush hair when it is dry.
- Paul Mitchell Wide Tooth Detangler CombDetangles wet or dry hair, and spreads a mask or treatment evenly.Check price
Protective styles, done safely
Braids, twists, locs, wigs and weaves reduce daily handling, but tension at the root causes a type of hair loss called traction alopecia. The AAD's guidance:
- Loosen braids, especially around the hairline, and keep cornrows from being tight.
- Choose thicker braids and locs, and keep them short: longer hair is heavier and pulls more.
- Wear braids for no longer than 6 to 8 weeks.
- Wear weaves and extensions for short periods, remove them right away if they hurt or irritate the scalp, and choose sewn-in over glued.
- Change styles regularly so the hairline can recover.
Pain, bumps or thinning at the edges are a signal to take the style out and, if it continues, to see a dermatologist.
At night
Cotton pulls moisture out of coily hair and creates friction. Sleep in a satin or silk bonnet or scarf, or on a satin pillowcase, with the hair in loose twists or a pineapple.
- Kitsch Satin Pillowcase with ZipperSatin causes less friction than cotton. The zipper keeps it from sliding off.Check price
FAQ
What is the difference between 4A, 4B and 4C hair?
The shape of the coil. 4A forms small coils with a visible S when stretched. 4B bends in sharp Z-shaped angles with a less defined pattern. 4C has the tightest coils and the most shrinkage, often with little visible pattern unless stretched.
How often should you wash 4C hair?
The AAD says textured hair should be shampooed when needed, at least once every 2 to 3 weeks, and doesn't need daily or weekly washing. Many people with type 4 hair wash once a week or every other week.
Why does coily hair break so easily?
Every bend in a tightly coiled strand is a weak point, and coily hair loses moisture faster than other types. Dry handling, brushing dry hair and tight styles all add to the breakage.
How long can you keep braids in?
The AAD advises wearing braids for no longer than 6 to 8 weeks, keeping them loose at the hairline, and changing styles regularly. Pain, bumps or thinning at the edges mean the style should come out.
Is LOC or LCO better for type 4 hair?
It depends on your porosity more than your pattern. Try one order for two weeks, then the other, and keep the one that leaves your hair softer for longer.
Two people with 4C hair can still need opposite products, depending on porosity and how much heat or color the hair has had. The quiz builds a routine from all of that.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology, Tips for healthy hair, 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists and Hairstyles that pull can lead to hair loss. Pattern descriptions: hair type chart.