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Type 3 hair forms real curls, from loose loops to tight corkscrews. The subtypes are told apart by curl width: a 3A curl wraps around something like a stick of sidewalk chalk, a 3C curl around a pencil or a straw.
Curly hair is drier than straight or wavy hair because scalp oil has trouble traveling down a spiral. Almost everything in a curly routine follows from that.
3A hair
Large, loose, shiny curls with a defined S-shape. Easily stretched out or weighed down. Often mixed with 2C sections, especially around the face.
What helps: a light cream or foam leave-in, a medium-hold gel, and as little touching as possible while it dries.
3B hair
Springy ringlets about the width of a marker, with a lot of volume. Dryer than 3A, frizzier, and prone to tangling at the nape.
What helps: a richer leave-in, a gel with stronger hold on top, and a diffuser on low speed. A deep conditioner once a week if the ends feel rough.
- tgin Miracle RepaiRx Deep Hydrating Hair MaskMoisture mask with biotin, for dry, damaged or colored hair of any texture.
- SheaMoisture JBCO Strengthen & Restore MasqueShea butter, peppermint and apple cider vinegar. Sold for dry hair that breaks.
3C hair
Tight corkscrews, dense and with noticeable shrinkage. 3C sits between curly and coily: many people with 3C hair find coily-hair products and techniques work better than products sold for curls.
What helps: detangling only with conditioner in, a cream plus gel combination, and sleeping with the hair loosely gathered on top of the head. If your 3C hair behaves like 4A, read the coily hair guide too.
How often to wash curly hair
The American Academy of Dermatology says thick, curly hair doesn't need washing daily or even weekly, and that dry, textured, curly or thick hair should be shampooed when needed, at least once every 2 to 3 weeks. In practice most people with type 3 hair settle somewhere between twice a week and once every ten days. Rinsing or co-washing (washing with conditioner only) in between refreshes curls without stripping them.
Conditioning and detangling
Unlike straight hair, curly hair needs conditioner along the whole length, not just the ends, and the AAD recommends a thick conditioner after every wash. The best time to comb is in the shower, with the conditioner still in. Use fingers or a wide-tooth comb, start at the ends and work up. Never brush curls dry.
Defining curls
- Apply leave-in and gel to soaking wet hair, section by section.
- Scrunch upward to encourage clumps. Some people "squish to condish": scrunching water into the conditioner before rinsing, which helps curls clump.
- Blot excess water with a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel; regular towels rough up the cuticle.
- Air-dry or diffuse on low heat. The AAD notes heat and sun dry out curly hair, so keep the dryer on low or medium.
- Once fully dry, scrunch out the gel cast.
Keeping curls overnight
Gather the hair loosely on top of the head (a "pineapple") or into a loose braid before sleeping, as the AAD suggests, and use a satin pillowcase or bonnet to cut friction.
- YANIBEST Adjustable Double-Layer Satin BonnetDouble layer with an adjustable band, so it stays on through the night.
Your curl type tells you how your hair looks. Porosity tells you which of these products it can actually absorb. The quiz combines both.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology, 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists and Tips for healthy hair. Pattern descriptions: hair type chart.